Yellowing Leaves in Late Winter: The Water-Light Mismatch

In much of the U.S. and Northern Hemisphere, late winter into early spring (February/March) is a tricky time. You still have shorter daylight, cooler windowsills, and drier indoor air.

Many houseplants are still in “slow-motion” mode, using far less water than they do in summer. If your watering habits don’t adjust, leaves often turn yellow—especially the older, lower leaves.

1. Typical Symptoms

• Pattern: Lower/older leaves turn pale yellow first.
• Texture: Leaves may feel soft or drop easily (unlike the crispy leaves of underwatering).
• Soil: Potting mix stays wet for many days or weeks.
• Smell: Sometimes a musty smell comes from the soil (a sign of early root stress/rot).

2. Why This Peaks in Late Winter

It’s usually a “perfect storm” of three factors:

1. Weak Light: The sun angle is still low, meaning plants photosynthesize less and therefore use less water.
2. Cool Roots: Cold air near windows slows down the root system’s ability to drink.
3. Human Optimism: We water “because spring is coming,” but the plant hasn’t actually started its active growth spurt yet.

3. Most Common Causes (Ranked)

1. Overwatering / Poor Drainage (The #1 Culprit): You are watering for a summer plant in a winter environment.
2. Low Light: The plant literally cannot use the water sitting in the pot because it lacks the solar energy to process it.
3. Cold Stress: Wet soil + cold drafts = rapid root rot.
4. Nutrient Imbalance: Less common in winter. (Don’t fertilize yet!)
5. Pests: Possible, but you would usually see stippling, webbing, or sticky residue.

4. Quick Checks (2 Minutes)

• Finger Test: Is the soil wet 1–2 inches down? If yes, do not water.
• Pot Weight: Lift the pot. Does it still feel heavy days after your last watering?
• Drainage: Are there drainage holes? Is water sitting in the saucer?
• Light Check: Can you read a book comfortably near the plant without turning on a lamp? If not, it’s too dim for most plants.

5. What To Do Now (Step-by-Step)

If you see yellowing right now, follow these steps to save the plant:

1. Stop Watering: Immediately stop until the top 1–2 inches (or more for large pots) are bone dry.
2. Empty Saucers: Ensure the pot never sits in standing water.
3. Increase Light: Move the plant closer to a bright window (but watch for cold drafts) or add a grow light.
4. Warm the Roots: If the pot is on a freezing cold windowsill, move it back a few inches or put a cork mat/trivet underneath insulation.
5. Wait: Do NOT fertilize. Do NOT repot (unless the plant is smelling/rotting rapidly). Wait for active growth to resume.

Recommendations

Do

• Water based on soil dryness, not the calendar.
• Use a pot with drainage holes.
• Give brighter light before you increase watering frequency.
• Start spring fertilizer only after you see consistent new green growth.

Don’t

• Don’t “fix” yellowing by adding fertilizer immediately (this burns stressed roots).
• Don’t water “a little bit often”—this keeps the bottom roots permanently soggy.
• Don’t repot just because it’s spring unless symptoms are severe.